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CG Start to Finish Part Two: Coloring in Painter
Step 5: Coloring the Skin
Now, originally, I had intended to make a Photoshop-only tutorial, but
this picture was on a deadline and I'd been playing around in Painter 7
recently, so I colored it there instead.
As you'll recall, I'd drawn the outline and done all the color-mapping in
Photoshop. That makes my coloring in Painter very easy. It just so
happens, Painter can open PSD files. (The reverse is not true; in order to
open an RIF file in Photoshop, you must first save it as a PSD.) So open
up my color-mapped file in Painter 7 and begin with the skin. You can
really begin with any area, but I just decided to use the skin this time.
In order to give the picture a painted color feel, I utilize the Roudn
Camelhair tool. (It's under Brushes.) I have the size set to 45-ish and
the opacity around 65%. The Resat's at 43 and the bleed is at 92.
Now, usually I use the Round Camelhair at 100%, but on this picture, I
want to do more blending. You can change from a harder painted line to a
more blended one by adjusting the opacity, assuming you have the ROund
Camelhair adjusted the way I do. I like this because it's more like paint
in my mind.
The color mapped for the skin is more to the yellow side. I use colors
more to the red for the shading. Skin, unlike most other things, should
have this kind of differentiation. I think it has something to do with
skin's transparency. They had issues with this in Final Fantasy: the
Spirits Within where they had to paint the skin a certain way. Or
something like that.
Anyway.
I do my skin in two stages to start. First a slightly darker (and redder)
shadow, then a much more darker one. In this image, you can see I've
gotten the lighter shadow on most all the skin and started to add the
darker shade. (Ignore the area on the neck, which was done with a 100%
opacity brush -- though it does show you why I lowered the opacity.)

You don't have to add every area of lighter shadow at once. I usually
work on one area at a time. That's why the blobs of color off to the side
are so important. They're my palette. With those, I can always grab the
pure form of the colors I'm using, so I can work on one area and have the
same colors when I move to the next. (Or just select the pur colors in a
pinch.) I work around like this, putting down my first color, putting down
my second, selecting the halfway colors, blending and sharpening until I
have something I like.
Here's a few tips:
1. If you're using a color-mapped file with preserve transparency (like in
this example), always start your brush stroke on the colored area, not in
the blank space. Painter considers all of this blank space to be white,
and starting your brush stroke in this area will result in a white streak.
2. Starting your brush stroke in light or dark areas will affect the
blending. Experiment!
3. For cel-style stuff, try the Scratchboard Tool
4. Normally, you would probably draw your outline in Painter and color in
Photoshop. Outlinging in Painter is superior because Painter is better at
interpreting pen movement and results in better strokes. I'm being an
oddball. XD
5. You really can't use Painter without a tablet. Sorry. See my [Things to
Know About Tablets] (under construction) for more info.
6. Normally, you wouldn't use Painter on a color mapped file like this,
due to the blank space = white space. I'll have to write a tutorial on the
proper way to do this later.
7. I keep my hands on the Ctrl and V keys. By holding down ctrl, I can
easily pick up all the intermediate shades between the shadowed and light
areas and blend them in, and I can also quickly undo something if I
dislike it. See [Notes on Undoing in Painter] (under construction) for
more details.
The last touch is to do a bit of even darker shadow and some
highlights, seen here.

I know you'll go, "Hey, wait, you jumped way ahead!" but that's really
all there is to it. Base color, shadow (sometimes two levels of shadow),
blend and experiment until you like the way it looks, some spots of even
darker shadow, and some highlights. For the clothing, I really only
applied one level of shadow (besides the small darker shadow) because it
doesn't need that depth the skin does. I moved the shadows on the yellow
shirt slightly more to the red of the spectrum, because if you don't do
that, yellow things look too greenish.
Oh, and I forgot to mention, I also started using a large eraser to
soften up the outlines. Eh heh, I kinda got carried away with what I was
doing and forgot to save copies along the way. Finally I start the hair,
adding the shade.

This ends up being one of the harder parts of the image. It takes less
time to complete the hair than the skin, but it's more frustrating. Above,
I added the shading for the hair. That worked like a charm. Then I had to
add the highlights. Not such a charm. I worked on the pink hair first, but
the color didn't like being dragged suddenly to white, so I had to
experiment a bit, adding in successively lighter/redder shades of pink.
Lots of little brushstrokes, and constantly tweaking the color on the
palette. It ended up looking like this:

Which was passable, but not as big a bang effect as I wanted. So I made
a new layer and drew some quick, messy highlights with the scratchboard
tool and used the eraser to soften the edged. Voila, the hair pops out and
is shiny. You can see the un-softened highlight on the blonde hair and the
softened on the pink.

Now I finally start on the eyes. (I also tweak some of the highlight on
the blonde hair.) Since I didn't have the eyes color=mapped, I do them the
way I normally would in a multi-level Painter painting: I color in more
area than I need, work on the area, and then erase the excess. This avoids
that little earlier problem I mentioned about how Painter treats blank
space.

Since so many people seem to have an interest in eyes, I'll quickly
over how I do them. (I do them a bit differently in Photoshop, but meh,
I'm in Painter and I don't feel like changing.) What you can't see in the
above picture is the fact that the eyeball is finished. I simple painted a
large grey area and then added a white highlight. You could also paint is
white and then add a grey shadow, but I personally like the way the white
highlight looks better. (You'll notice a lot of very good artists do eyes
like that, and better.) Moving on to the pupil, I first start by putting
on a darker color. (Who'da guessed!?) In this case, though, I go with a
really dark color in comparison. I color the pupils and a bit of the area
around the outside. Then I add a black area in the center for the pupil.
You can see both of these stages on the characters eyes (black pupil added
on the right). It should be noted, while I did most of the work on this
picture at 50%, I do the eyes at 100%.

I darken the eye shadows a bit and start to add the highlights. For the
big highlight, a big patch of near-white or white with a bit of a dark
line added underneath. For the rest of the eye, I use the dodge tool and
make four little ovals of highlight and finish off with a stroke of
highlight over the four. The number of "little ovals" will vary depending
on the size of your strokes. You can use lots of little narrow strokes, or
even not use little ovals at all. This will probably clue you in as to why
I prefer doing eyes in Photoshop. Painter's Dodge is really inferior. I
don't really know why I'm using it besides being too lazy to switch
programs. The really sad thing is, I'll have to switch programs in a
minute to resize the image. (Painter is also an inferior program for
resizing images.)
In the below image, the eyes are, from left to right:
1. with big highlight
2. finished
2. with little "oval" highlights
4. finished

I erase the excess area, add a bit of darker shadow on the eye (my
initial grey wasn't dark enough), erase the palettes, sign it, and voila,
I am done with the image and tutorial.

Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go open up Photoshop to resize it
and add a really cheap background and some text. (Painter, by the way, is
the suckiest program ever for adding text. You're better off using MS
Paint.)
... And finish the gold. I completely forgot about it. *sigh*
Finished image Back to Tutorials |
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